Men’s Sports Jacket guide: how to choose and wear a sport’s jacket (2/2)
This article is the second and final part of the “how to choose a jacket” guide.
How to wear a sports jacket?
And what to wear it with?
The jacket is one of the easiest items to wear. You don’t have to be particularly fashionable to pull it off; it accommodates strong, basic items really well and is inexpensive.
Here are some associated items of clothing that have been proven very successful:
– Dark t-shirt (with possible logo) + jacket
– Scoop neck t-shirt (clear rounded collar) + shirt + jacket
– Shirt (with possible twisted collar) + jacket
– Checked shirt + jacket
– V necked t-shirt + v necked jumper + jacket
– Dark hoodie (possible shirt) + jacket
Down the line, you will take the time to illustrate this list with numerous other style ideas.
The t-shirt and jacket
Jacket and V-necked Tee
When the weather is summery, a simple blazer on the other hand accommodates well a v-neck tee, because the geometric lines of the collar and the lapel are in harmony.
The combination formed by the collar of the t-shirt and the lapel of the blazer works coherently.
By associating t-shirts with complementary collars, layering can give colour contrasts and boosters.
Here, we’re talking about clever layering with smart features: the pocket, button and t-shirt are the same colours
as well as a hint of hair between the torso and the beard.
In the case of the preceding photo, the v-necked tee worn under the Tunisian t-shirt creates an extra geometrical and harmonious level.
If the temperatures aren’t too high, you can apply the same principal of superimposition by wearing a cotton cardigan and a v-necked tee under the jacket.
The men’s blazer and a round-neck tee
When applying the same geometric considerations, it could be said that the rounded collar wouldn’t work. In fact, this isn’t true, as long as the basic items are solid and matched with style.
As soon as you master the fundamentals of the look based on the cut and the even colours, it’s time to play with colours without looking for ideas that are too sophisticated (synonym for a headache).
Later, you can begin to play around with a depth of different of collars or with colour tones:
2 – This look suggests another solution: the tones of the jumper and jacket are sufficiently similar so that the geometric contrasts don’t interfere with each other.
The shirt and the blazer: a safe option to start with
The shirt is the ideal partner to the blazer, given that it’s an item where the structure adapts itself perfectly to the former: the collar of the shirt and the fold-down collar forms a geometrically harmonious set (the shirt collar settles itself naturally into this blazer, whilst being a little bit bigger).
As soon as you’re comfortable with your blazer and favourite shirts, you can start to find original details – or twists – like the collar of this shirt for example:
The shirt and the men’s blazer: towards a more advanced style
The associations with twists can be sometimes presented as geometric contrasts, like the coexistence of the peak lapels, folded-over a shirt with a rounded collar.
In each circumstance, an advanced perspective of style allows the enhancement of these kinds of details and to develop looks which have character.
When it comes to the association of colours between scarves, don’t forget to consider the colour of the buttons on the shirt. Whether in horn, wooden, pearl or plastic, it is just as important to consider that they form a dotted line leading to your face.
Whatever applies to the buttons on your shirts evidently applies to the buttons on your jackets: here the green reflection of the pearl buttons on the cardigan is highlighted by the colour of the blazer.
It is possible to wear a t-shirt under a shirt: by example a grey or white t-shirt under a chambray shirt.
Beware of over-thinking
It’s always important to avoid falling into the habit of multiplying colours, and equally to avoid looking overly matchy-matchy.
Being preoccupied with looking perfectly matched resembles machine-like tendencies. It doesn’t really suggest the true meaning of a beautiful look.
As always, it’s about having a clear aim but doing it with a sense of nonchalance and detachment that no one will ever doubt.
Don’t hesitate to reread the articles on how to match colors.
Polo shirts under a blazer
Be open to all closet items as style and elegance prevails over preconceived ideas: including the polo.
Roll up your sleeves and play with colours
An interesting way to claim ownership of your style consists of playing with the way you wear your blazer by rolling up your sleeves to your forearms.
It looks more natural if the sleeves are open; that is to say if they come with real buttonholes.
This will be much more complicated to do with jackets without open buttonholes (over-represented at the base of ready to wear).
This twist doesn’t necessarily provide more freshness when the temperatures rise due to the fact that air cannot circulate.
On the other hand rolling up your sleeves brings what you need to look casual and unveils an extra colored fabric (cardigan or inner lining of the jacket) with which it is possible to have fun with (challenge).
Our selection of jackets
Foreword: all of the suggested models below are part of the collection available at the time of this article being written (spring-summer 2014). No need to look for the exact replica six months later (however you will find excellent equivalents at the same brands).
It’s usually at breakthrough prices where you can’t find anything that is durable, but everyone must have a look. The starting prices at Zara and H&M start at $70, where you’ll find synthetic products (or cotton that is pretty standard). If you aim for the first day of the sales, you can find some really good steals.
When it starts getting closer to $140, you’ll discover linen, notably in Zara.
If you want to find something in more reputable fabric (wool, cotton) you’ll have to spend more than $140 in these stores.
Although often the finish and the quality of the materials is neglected, these big chains sometimes offer excellent cuts. This becomes relevant when retouching the jackets to adapt perfectly to your shape (fit and the base of the sleeves).
It’s important to point out that a jacket from Zara or H&M is difficult to wear for more than one season. After this period passes, the padding deforms (the padded tissue at the shoulders), the fabric shows many signs of wear and tear and if you’ve had the misfortune to take it to the dry-cleaners, the fabric will show unsightly little blisters (because of the fused-lining on the inside of the clothing).
Finally, at all costs it’s important to specify an essential last thing when you scurry through shops looking for a blazer: pay attention to the cut, notably around the back.
At the top of the entry-level items, you can fall back on the selection of jackets from COS ($260). For svelte figures, the simplicity of Swedish fashion is always a safe bet.
Middle range blazers
Much more preferable than the entry-level range, it will always be much more durable and therefore profitable in the mid-term.
Suitsupply, of which many looks suggested in this article are from, is a Dutch brand that makes impeccably well-cut jackets from $275, from quality materials (English tweed, Italian wool, etc.), with constructions that encourages respect (Opened button holes, half canvassed to fully canvassed jackets, etc).
Like many other brands that we love, the strategic model of this brand is inscribed in that of vertical integration (like Frank & Oak which we have already spoken about or Gustin jeans). Thus, the quality/price relationship is brilliant. The catch is that they aren’t available online.
Finally, Suitsupply is an excellent source of inspiration for starting to compose more advanced looks.
Pay attention to big chains that offer enticing cuts and details for extortionate prices, like The Kooples, Sandro and such. Their communication and distribution methods don’t allow for quality at competitive prices (they make gross margins that are far too high, note our article on the business of ready-to-wear.
These brands shouldn’t be considered at any other time than during de-stocking or other private sales. It’s here that the prices of clothing start to struggle to approach a reasonable value with regard to quality (generally speaking a jacket for a little more than $280).
We make the same remark: mid-range jackets often age prematurely. Pay attention to padding, often synthetic or low quality materials, premature wear and tear, and adhesive fabric that causes blisters.
If you’re looking for quality and durability, look towards Filippa K ($415), Acne ($700), Melinda Gloss ($700) and Gant Rugger ($550) to ensure high value.
Passing to the next stage, the most elaborate blazers with cuts presenting stylish twists become powerful statement items with huge amounts of character.
This is happening with a wide range of technical jackets ($970), Ozwald Boateng ($830) or Dior Homme ($1950).
These items that are the stuff of dreams seem completely inaccessible. Nevertheless, don’t hesitate to go into these luxury stores to try them on, discover how you feel about them, look at the details, the finish and feel the fabric. This means that next time, you will be able to take advantage of the opportunity when they make themselves available (during sales, or at brands where they offer reasonable prices, although éclectic already offer an excellent quality/price relationship.)
This process allows one to follow a principle that you should never bypass: take the time to try on and look around. It’s an absolute necessity when allowing your style to flourish and blossom.
Please feel free to get involved and add your comments to the commentary below! 🙂