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The Feared Shave: Straight Razors

Published by

Theory

at June 26, 2008 in Grooming. 3 Comments

A month ago, we did a post entitled “The Elusive Perfect Shave.” Apparently it was quite popular with the readers, attracting over 40,000 page views in just a few days. Seems like it’s a topic that guys are interested in, so we’re going to take it one notch extreme with the feared and revered “straight razor.”

Not only was the straight razor Sweeney Todd’s weapon of choice, but these notorious razors have showed up all over film & popular culture:

- In The Matrix Reloaded, the Twins use straight razors to fight Neo’s entourage

- In Kill Bill Vol. 2, when Uma Thurman’s character is buried alive, she uses a straight razor to cut the rope that binds her

- In the film Reservoir Dogs, Michael Madsen’s character, Mr. Blonde slices off the ear (off-camera) of kidnapped LAPD Officer Marvin Nash in one of the film’s most memorable scenes.

- In an episode from The Simpsons, Homer Simpson is forced to live in house that only allowed the use of items from the 1800s. This forced him to shave with a straight razor, resulting in a bloody mess.

- Stories circulate as to how gangster Al Capone got his nickname Scarface: attributing it to an irate barber, who allegedly cut him with a straight razor.

With the proper disclaimer set in place, courtesy of popular culture, let’s dive right into this…

The Cut-throat Razor

Also called open razors or cut-throat razors (quite the comforting name), straight razors require a considerable level of skill to maintain and master. However, contrary to popular fears, there is very little risk of seriously injuring yourself while shaving if you exercises proper method.

Although you barely see them anywhere now, straight razors were the most common form of shaving before the 1900s. Back then, Barbers were specially trained to give customers a thorough shave with a collection at hand.

So the question remains, why bring back an ancient tool?

Advantages

For many straight razor shavers, it’s a nostalgic hobby or a masculine ritual. For some, it’s the economic benefits from not having to buy disposable blades. But many claim that the straight razor provides the closest thing to the elusive “perfect shave.” Shaving with a straight razor covers much more area per stroke due to the fact that the cutting edge of a straight razor is much longer than other types of razors.

Then there’s the simple cool factor of using an incredibly well-crafted knife to cut the hair that you used to grind out with a stick of some plastic contraption.

Or is it the allure of the danger? that childish symptom of wanting to touch the fire and get away unharmed? Perhaps. But there seems to be a method to the madness, a consistent way of cheating the potential consequences and be left with a sense of accomplishment each day, each shave…

The video below shows exactly that…

Straight razor in action:

(video courtesy of shaykai)

Sharpening the blade: Honing & Stropping

The key to getting a good shave with a straight razor is keeping it extremely sharp. Almost paradoxically, you’re more likely to cut yourself with a dull blade than an extremely sharped one. In order to sharpen the blade, you need a hone like the one below:

You can learn more about the different types of hones here.

The next equipment you’ll need is the strop. Whereas honing re-establishes the fine edge of the razor by removing metal from the razor, stropping aligns and straightens the edge.

You can see some the prep work / method in the video below:

The safest route from Safety to Straight:

If you’re a newbie, moving up from a safety razor to a straight razor can be a scary jump. James Whittall of MensEssentials recommends starting with “safety zones” by isolating your use of a straight razor to just your sideburns, shaving the rest of your face with your normal safety razor, and expanding to more parts of your face as you get more comfortable.

Recommended razor brands:

- Dovo
- Feather
- Theirs Issard
- Sanguine

A good razor can cost anywhere from $30 to several hundred. For those just starting out, consider a solid entry blade such as the “Dovo Stainless Shavette” which is both economical and effective.

If you’re interested in trying it out, it’s highly recommended to pair it with a quality shaving cream/soap. You can find my recommendation in our last shaving article.

Caveat: This is just a introduction to straight razors. Straight razors can cause cuts, and even serious injuries, so I highly advise you do your research before you dive into the world of Sweeney Todd and “friends.” Here’s a great resource if you’re interested in learning more about the straight razor.

Looking in the mirror and seeing the best shave of your life, no cuts, and a dangerously beautiful looking blade in your hand can be quite satisfying. However, for those of you who want to take the dive, understand that what we covered today touches on the extremes of grooming. 99% of the guys out there will never own or shave with a straight razor (and may never need to), but for that 1%…

Stay Sharp,

Theory

The Elusive Perfect Shave

Published by

Theory

at May 23, 2008 in Grooming. 18 Comments

Back in 2004, The Onion predicted that Gillette would release a 5-blade razor in a satire entitled: “Fuck Everything, We’re Doing Five Blades”

By James M. Kilts
CEO and President,
The Gillette Company
February 18, 2004 | Issue 40*07
Would someone tell me how this happened? We were the fucking vanguard of shaving in this country. The Gillette Mach3 was the razor to own. Then the other guy came out with a three-blade razor. Were we scared? Hell, no. Because we hit back with a little thing called the Mach3Turbo. That’s three blades and an aloe strip. For moisture. But you know what happened next? Shut up, I’m telling you what happened—the bastards went to four blades. Now we’re standing around with our cocks in our hands, selling three blades and a strip. Moisture or no, suddenly we’re the chumps. Well, fuck it. We’re going to five blades.

Well, it happened. It’s called the Gillette Fusion. And now, the thing has a battery and vibrates…

Do we really need 5 blades that vibrate?

Somewhere along the history of men’s grooming, shaving got adulterated and lost its purity, big time. Looking at the toys that litter the market these days, it’s clear that it’s just a marketing war out there.

So Jae and I did some research, revisited our shaving stash, and went on a journey into the art of wet-shaving: a world full of shaving creams scented with Lavender, shaving brushes made of badger hair and ivory handles from England, safety razors from the early 1900’s with blades made in Japan, and methods that looked like more art than anything I’ve associated with shaving before.

Excessive? maybe. We went in to investigate, and this is what we found:

The Classic Double-edged Safety Razor

It may seem like I’m bashing Gillette, but I only have the utmost reverence for Gillette. Gillette is the designer of one of the finest razors ever made, the Double-edged “Heavy Duty” Safety Razor. It is considered by many experienced “wet shavers” as the standard for double-edged safety razors.

I discovered, with the help of many a wet-shavers’ advice, that one of these old school safety razors, coupled with the proper shaving cream, will do a much better job at giving you a close shave than those new 5-6 bladed monsters. It also won’t cost you a tank of gas to buy replacement cartridges, saving you tons in the long-term.

Although they don’t make them anymore, a German company named Merkur is continuing the legacy with the same high quality and design. Search for the Merkur Heavy Duty Safety Razor.

I bought mine at lee’s razor for $35. Shaving never felt so solid and elegant.

They go for around $25-35, but if you’re looking for the greatest shave of your life, it’ll be one of the best investments you make in awhile.

Blades

These classic razors usually don’t come with blades so you’re going to have to purchase blades separately.

However, this is where you really save because Fusion replacements cost $40 for a pack of 8–that’s $5 per cartridge-- while double edge replacement blades will only cost you around $.50 cents.

Different blades work for different people, so you’re going to have to experiment a little. The best bet is to buy small sample pack of the following brands before you go ahead and invest in 20,000 of one kind.

Here are some of the highest quality blades recommended by experienced wet shavers: Merkur (Germany), Personnas (Israel - great starter blades), Derby (Turkey), and Feather (Japanese blades that are feared and revered as ninja sharp blades - the company makes surgical equipment).

Shaving Brushes

Now this is where shaving takes on another level.

Most men do not own a brush nor do they feel compelled to drop $25-$500 on something they can use their hands for. However, if you’re even somewhat serious about getting the “perfect shave,” the shaving brush is an integral piece.

It not only turns your shaving cream into the perfect lather, but raises the hairs on your face for a much better shave. Not to mention, it also exfoliates dead skin off your face.

Types of Shaving Brush Hairs

There are a few types of shaving brush hairs, and these types (including what part of the animal the hair is from) will determine the quality of the brush, as well as the whether it will cost you $5 or $500.

The major types you’re going to find are 1. Badger, 2. Boar, and 3. Synthetic.

The Badger is going to account for your highest quality brushes, followed by the Boar.

For many guys, this is where they might want to cut costs, but opting for the boar hair may result in a harsh brush that falls apart all over your face. You don’t want that, so I recommend going with the Badger.

Within the Badger brushes you’re going to get a few grades. In general the grades are categorized as “pure” (being the lowest grade), “best,” “super,” and “silver tip.” The “super” or “silver tip “badger brushes are going to be some of the softest, highest quality brushes you can find, and will have a white color instead of its usual black/brown. These brushes can go upwards of $500. Personally, I don’t see the need/value, but to each their own.

I got my best badger brush at Crabtree & Evelyn. It’s one of the best values you’re going to find for a really high-quality badger brush.

Some other great look-for brands are: Vulfix, Savile Row, and Shavemac.

If the idea of using animal hair rubs you the wrong way, Men-u’s Premier Shaving Brush is a synthetic brush that is highly recommended by experienced wet shavers. 3-years in the making, many say the men-u premier surpasses the effectiveness of badger brushes in creating a phenomenal lather.

Shaving Creams

Even if you decide to skip the brush, and even the safety razor, you’re going to see a huge improvement in your shaves by upgrading your shaving cream.

Look for a glycerin-based shaving cream as it binds well with water. Throw away that shaving gel as they most likely contain alcohol which closes your pores and drys out your skin. Here are a few brands I would recommend:

Taylor of Old Bond Street ($13)

Geo F. Trumper ($15)

Crabtree & Evelyn Sandalwood Shaving Cream ($15)

Proraso ($8)

Here is another great shaving cream that I would recommend: The Art of Shaving Unscented Shaving Cream Tube

How to Shave w/ a Single Blade:

It took a bit to get used to shaving with a single blade instead of “5 plus the precision of 1.” I was used to rushing, and worse, pressing down on my skin in order to get a closer shave.

Preparation is Key

“Ninety percent of shaving is preparation” - Adam Dishell, of The Shave Beverly Hills

Shave after a hot shower, or at the least, wash your face in hot water for at least 30 seconds. This will open up your pores and get your hair exposed for the shave. You can also put a hot towel on your face like when you’re getting a wet shave at a barber. You can also go as far as using pre-shave oil to make your whiskers stand, but I find that a little excessive–a good shaving cream will do that for you.

Here’s a great video of a single blade in action:

The Aftermath

So many guys forget to moisturize their skin. Shaving tends to expose new skin and really dry it out. Use a good moisturizer to avoid the red and itching that may be the aftermath.

Here are some great after-shave balms:

Nivea Extra Soothing Balm ($6)
At $6 this is one of the best values when it comes to after shave balms.

Proraso Liquid Cream After Shave ($12)
The Italians know what they’re doing when it comes to shaving, and this after shave cream is a prime example.

Art of Shaving After Shave Balm ($38)
Personally, I think Art of Shaving is overpriced, but their products are quality. Their shave balm is especially good.

Geo F. Trumper Skin Food More a luxury than a necessity.

The Verdict:

Now the question is does all this result in a better, closer shave? or is it all merely a hyped-up hobby? I went out and bought some of the latest and greatest, and began to truly scrutinize my shaves.

At first, the shave was comparable between my old gear (Gillette fusion, can of gel shaving cream) and the new (merkur HD, taylor’s shaving cream, badger brush). In fact, using the classic safety razor initially resulted in a somewhat lack-luster shave with some nicks and cuts. However, after a few shaves under my belt, and a few revisions to my strategy, I began getting some of the closest shaves ever.

If anything, the shave brush and shaving cream upgrade alone magnified my shaving experience by ten-fold, even with my old multi-blade razor. The Merkur just took it to the next level. Not to mention, the whole process is an addictive, luxurious treat that sets the tone for the entire day.

Try it, and see for yourself.

Stay Sharp,

Theory

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And for those of you serious about totally upgrading your image, Jae of Kinowear.com is offering 1-on-1 consultations with Kino Image Consulting LLC in New York City. Check out the new portfolio page for the phenomenal before & after pictures of previous clients who took the leap.

Edit 5/27/08: Welcome Metafilter & Del.icio.us readers!
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How To Groom Your Eyebrows

Published by

Jae

at October 26, 2007 in Grooming. 5 Comments

Hahaha. This movie (40 Year Old Virgin) is hilarious.

It’s funny how for most men, “grooming” seems to be more of a big event than a normal part of their self-maintanence; like brushing their teeth, showering, etc.

It’s clear that some parts of society will frown upon men who pay too much attention to their grooming habits. Grooming is better associated with the metrosexual guys and the gay community.

The truth is that all men know the inherent benefits of being well groomed. It’s evolutionarily wired into human behavior to be more attracted to people who look healthier and more appealing. The only difference is that gay men have more social acceptance in paying extra attention to their appearance than straight men.

Screw that idea, and pay more attention to your personal grooming habits. You have to make the most of everything you have - taking care of your grooming habits will tap into your greatest potential for looking healthy and appealing.

We all have our opinions on what is acceptable for men - the way they should fit into their gender roles and stereotypes. Times are changing, and the women today pay a lot more attention to a man’s grooming habits than ever before.

All of my female friends have confirmed that no matter how unattractive a man is, if they are well groomed, they always catch their eye. The more details in hygiene and grooming a man fails to take care of, no matter how attractive he man is, the more points lost in a woman’s eyes.

Paying attention to your grooming will only increase your attractiveness.

Today I will talk about eyebrow maintenance.

Eyebrows are so important in framing your whole face. It makes you look polished when well taken care of.

Of course it depends on your current brow situation.

If you have really bushy eyebrows, you might want to consider having your brows waxed professionally to get exactly the shape you want.

Then you can more easily tweeze the strays as they grow in.

If you have ANY hair above your nose, it MUST GO.

Unibrows are highly unattractive.

If you want to do it at home yourself, it’s highly recommended that you do not shave it.

It’s proven that shaving doesn’t make hair grow in thicker or faster; Although hair will still look thicker because the ends are no longer naturally tapered but blunt. It may also cause the hairs to grow out in odd messy directions.

A better option would be to buy yourself a nice pair of tweezers, the better the tweezer the better it will be at grabbing fine hairs. There are tweezers on the market that are specially designed for tweezing eyebrows. They cost a bit more but make the experience less painful. You can find a nice pair at your nearest Sephora store.

Wash your face to get rid of dirt and excess oil before you pluck, this will make it easier for the hairs to come out.

Make sure you pluck the hair in the direction that it grows. Do not pull them in any direction that you want. Otherwise, the root of the hair gets trained, and it starts to grow in the direction that you are pulling.

As a man, you want your eyebrows to look great but still you want them to look as natural as possible. Overshaping them will only make you look girly and super metrosexual.

If you don’t have any craziness going on up there, and your eyebrows look pretty normal, you only need to take a few steps to make them look better.

First, brush your eyebrows up from the bottom with small brush to groom and shape. After you shaped eyebrows, tweeze those hairs that OBVIOUSLY lie outside of the eyebrow’s natural shape. One hair at a time. Last step is to trim them gently with scissors over brow brush that helps you control brow length.

And that should be enough for the most of men.

Here is a quick video I found for you visual people, to demonstrate how it’s done:

VideoJug: How To Tame Hairy Eyebrows

For those who have very faint eyebrows, and want them to look thicker, and stronger, check out this website for examples on using filling them in:

http://www.eyebrowz.com/mens/eyebrowstatement.htm

(the powders seem to work best for a natural look)

If you don’t want to do it yourself, you can always get them waxed at a salon, or threaded. Threading your eyebrows gives you a better result than waxing or plucking because it pulls an entire row of hair from the follicle to achieve a more straight-looking line of hair.