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The Feared Shave: Straight Razors

Published by

Theory

at June 26, 2008 in Grooming. 3 Comments

A month ago, we did a post entitled “The Elusive Perfect Shave.” Apparently it was quite popular with the readers, attracting over 40,000 page views in just a few days. Seems like it’s a topic that guys are interested in, so we’re going to take it one notch extreme with the feared and revered “straight razor.”

Not only was the straight razor Sweeney Todd’s weapon of choice, but these notorious razors have showed up all over film & popular culture:

- In The Matrix Reloaded, the Twins use straight razors to fight Neo’s entourage

- In Kill Bill Vol. 2, when Uma Thurman’s character is buried alive, she uses a straight razor to cut the rope that binds her

- In the film Reservoir Dogs, Michael Madsen’s character, Mr. Blonde slices off the ear (off-camera) of kidnapped LAPD Officer Marvin Nash in one of the film’s most memorable scenes.

- In an episode from The Simpsons, Homer Simpson is forced to live in house that only allowed the use of items from the 1800s. This forced him to shave with a straight razor, resulting in a bloody mess.

- Stories circulate as to how gangster Al Capone got his nickname Scarface: attributing it to an irate barber, who allegedly cut him with a straight razor.

With the proper disclaimer set in place, courtesy of popular culture, let’s dive right into this…

The Cut-throat Razor

Also called open razors or cut-throat razors (quite the comforting name), straight razors require a considerable level of skill to maintain and master. However, contrary to popular fears, there is very little risk of seriously injuring yourself while shaving if you exercises proper method.

Although you barely see them anywhere now, straight razors were the most common form of shaving before the 1900s. Back then, Barbers were specially trained to give customers a thorough shave with a collection at hand.

So the question remains, why bring back an ancient tool?

Advantages

For many straight razor shavers, it’s a nostalgic hobby or a masculine ritual. For some, it’s the economic benefits from not having to buy disposable blades. But many claim that the straight razor provides the closest thing to the elusive “perfect shave.” Shaving with a straight razor covers much more area per stroke due to the fact that the cutting edge of a straight razor is much longer than other types of razors.

Then there’s the simple cool factor of using an incredibly well-crafted knife to cut the hair that you used to grind out with a stick of some plastic contraption.

Or is it the allure of the danger? that childish symptom of wanting to touch the fire and get away unharmed? Perhaps. But there seems to be a method to the madness, a consistent way of cheating the potential consequences and be left with a sense of accomplishment each day, each shave…

The video below shows exactly that…

Straight razor in action:

(video courtesy of shaykai)

Sharpening the blade: Honing & Stropping

The key to getting a good shave with a straight razor is keeping it extremely sharp. Almost paradoxically, you’re more likely to cut yourself with a dull blade than an extremely sharped one. In order to sharpen the blade, you need a hone like the one below:

You can learn more about the different types of hones here.

The next equipment you’ll need is the strop. Whereas honing re-establishes the fine edge of the razor by removing metal from the razor, stropping aligns and straightens the edge.

You can see some the prep work / method in the video below:

The safest route from Safety to Straight:

If you’re a newbie, moving up from a safety razor to a straight razor can be a scary jump. James Whittall of MensEssentials recommends starting with “safety zones” by isolating your use of a straight razor to just your sideburns, shaving the rest of your face with your normal safety razor, and expanding to more parts of your face as you get more comfortable.

Recommended razor brands:

- Dovo
- Feather
- Theirs Issard
- Sanguine

A good razor can cost anywhere from $30 to several hundred. For those just starting out, consider a solid entry blade such as the “Dovo Stainless Shavette” which is both economical and effective.

If you’re interested in trying it out, it’s highly recommended to pair it with a quality shaving cream/soap. You can find my recommendation in our last shaving article.

Caveat: This is just a introduction to straight razors. Straight razors can cause cuts, and even serious injuries, so I highly advise you do your research before you dive into the world of Sweeney Todd and “friends.” Here’s a great resource if you’re interested in learning more about the straight razor.

Looking in the mirror and seeing the best shave of your life, no cuts, and a dangerously beautiful looking blade in your hand can be quite satisfying. However, for those of you who want to take the dive, understand that what we covered today touches on the extremes of grooming. 99% of the guys out there will never own or shave with a straight razor (and may never need to), but for that 1%…

Stay Sharp,

Theory

The Elusive Perfect Shave

Published by

Theory

at May 23, 2008 in Grooming. 21 Comments

Back in 2004, The Onion predicted that Gillette would release a 5-blade razor in a satire entitled: “Fuck Everything, We’re Doing Five Blades”

By James M. Kilts
CEO and President,
The Gillette Company
February 18, 2004 | Issue 40*07
Would someone tell me how this happened? We were the fucking vanguard of shaving in this country. The Gillette Mach3 was the razor to own. Then the other guy came out with a three-blade razor. Were we scared? Hell, no. Because we hit back with a little thing called the Mach3Turbo. That’s three blades and an aloe strip. For moisture. But you know what happened next? Shut up, I’m telling you what happened—the bastards went to four blades. Now we’re standing around with our cocks in our hands, selling three blades and a strip. Moisture or no, suddenly we’re the chumps. Well, fuck it. We’re going to five blades.

Well, it happened. It’s called the Gillette Fusion. And now, the thing has a battery and vibrates…

Do we really need 5 blades that vibrate?

Somewhere along the history of men’s grooming, shaving got adulterated and lost its purity, big time. Looking at the toys that litter the market these days, it’s clear that it’s just a marketing war out there.

So Jae and I did some research, revisited our shaving stash, and went on a journey into the art of wet-shaving: a world full of shaving creams scented with Lavender, shaving brushes made of badger hair and ivory handles from England, safety razors from the early 1900’s with blades made in Japan, and methods that looked like more art than anything I’ve associated with shaving before.

Excessive? maybe. We went in to investigate, and this is what we found:

The Classic Double-edged Safety Razor

It may seem like I’m bashing Gillette, but I only have the utmost reverence for Gillette. Gillette is the designer of one of the finest razors ever made, the Double-edged “Heavy Duty” Safety Razor. It is considered by many experienced “wet shavers” as the standard for double-edged safety razors.

I discovered, with the help of many a wet-shavers’ advice, that one of these old school safety razors, coupled with the proper shaving cream, will do a much better job at giving you a close shave than those new 5-6 bladed monsters. It also won’t cost you a tank of gas to buy replacement cartridges, saving you tons in the long-term.

Although they don’t make them anymore, a German company named Merkur is continuing the legacy with the same high quality and design. Search for the Merkur Heavy Duty Safety Razor.

I bought mine at lee’s razor for $35. Shaving never felt so solid and elegant.

They go for around $25-35, but if you’re looking for the greatest shave of your life, it’ll be one of the best investments you make in awhile.

Blades

These classic razors usually don’t come with blades so you’re going to have to purchase blades separately.

However, this is where you really save because Fusion replacements cost $40 for a pack of 8–that’s $5 per cartridge-- while double edge replacement blades will only cost you around $.50 cents.

Different blades work for different people, so you’re going to have to experiment a little. The best bet is to buy small sample pack of the following brands before you go ahead and invest in 20,000 of one kind.

Here are some of the highest quality blades recommended by experienced wet shavers: Merkur (Germany), Personnas (Israel - great starter blades), Derby (Turkey), and Feather (Japanese blades that are feared and revered as ninja sharp blades - the company makes surgical equipment).

Shaving Brushes

Now this is where shaving takes on another level.

Most men do not own a brush nor do they feel compelled to drop $25-$500 on something they can use their hands for. However, if you’re even somewhat serious about getting the “perfect shave,” the shaving brush is an integral piece.

It not only turns your shaving cream into the perfect lather, but raises the hairs on your face for a much better shave. Not to mention, it also exfoliates dead skin off your face.

Types of Shaving Brush Hairs

There are a few types of shaving brush hairs, and these types (including what part of the animal the hair is from) will determine the quality of the brush, as well as the whether it will cost you $5 or $500.

The major types you’re going to find are 1. Badger, 2. Boar, and 3. Synthetic.

The Badger is going to account for your highest quality brushes, followed by the Boar.

For many guys, this is where they might want to cut costs, but opting for the boar hair may result in a harsh brush that falls apart all over your face. You don’t want that, so I recommend going with the Badger.

Within the Badger brushes you’re going to get a few grades. In general the grades are categorized as “pure” (being the lowest grade), “best,” “super,” and “silver tip.” The “super” or “silver tip “badger brushes are going to be some of the softest, highest quality brushes you can find, and will have a white color instead of its usual black/brown. These brushes can go upwards of $500. Personally, I don’t see the need/value, but to each their own.

I got my best badger brush at Crabtree & Evelyn. It’s one of the best values you’re going to find for a really high-quality badger brush.

Some other great look-for brands are: Vulfix, Savile Row, and Shavemac.

If the idea of using animal hair rubs you the wrong way, Men-u’s Premier Shaving Brush is a synthetic brush that is highly recommended by experienced wet shavers. 3-years in the making, many say the men-u premier surpasses the effectiveness of badger brushes in creating a phenomenal lather.

Shaving Creams

Even if you decide to skip the brush, and even the safety razor, you’re going to see a huge improvement in your shaves by upgrading your shaving cream.

Look for a glycerin-based shaving cream as it binds well with water. Throw away that shaving gel as they most likely contain alcohol which closes your pores and drys out your skin. Here are a few brands I would recommend:

Taylor of Old Bond Street ($13)

Geo F. Trumper ($15)

Crabtree & Evelyn Sandalwood Shaving Cream ($15)

Proraso ($8)

Here is another great shaving cream that I would recommend: The Art of Shaving Unscented Shaving Cream Tube

How to Shave w/ a Single Blade:

It took a bit to get used to shaving with a single blade instead of “5 plus the precision of 1.” I was used to rushing, and worse, pressing down on my skin in order to get a closer shave.

Preparation is Key

“Ninety percent of shaving is preparation” - Adam Dishell, of The Shave Beverly Hills

Shave after a hot shower, or at the least, wash your face in hot water for at least 30 seconds. This will open up your pores and get your hair exposed for the shave. You can also put a hot towel on your face like when you’re getting a wet shave at a barber. You can also go as far as using pre-shave oil to make your whiskers stand, but I find that a little excessive–a good shaving cream will do that for you.

Here’s a great video of a single blade in action:

The Aftermath

So many guys forget to moisturize their skin. Shaving tends to expose new skin and really dry it out. Use a good moisturizer to avoid the red and itching that may be the aftermath.

Here are some great after-shave balms:

Nivea Extra Soothing Balm ($6)
At $6 this is one of the best values when it comes to after shave balms.

Proraso Liquid Cream After Shave ($12)
The Italians know what they’re doing when it comes to shaving, and this after shave cream is a prime example.

Art of Shaving After Shave Balm ($38)
Personally, I think Art of Shaving is overpriced, but their products are quality. Their shave balm is especially good.

Geo F. Trumper Skin Food More a luxury than a necessity.

The Verdict:

Now the question is does all this result in a better, closer shave? or is it all merely a hyped-up hobby? I went out and bought some of the latest and greatest, and began to truly scrutinize my shaves.

At first, the shave was comparable between my old gear (Gillette fusion, can of gel shaving cream) and the new (merkur HD, taylor’s shaving cream, badger brush). In fact, using the classic safety razor initially resulted in a somewhat lack-luster shave with some nicks and cuts. However, after a few shaves under my belt, and a few revisions to my strategy, I began getting some of the closest shaves ever.

If anything, the shave brush and shaving cream upgrade alone magnified my shaving experience by ten-fold, even with my old multi-blade razor. The Merkur just took it to the next level. Not to mention, the whole process is an addictive, luxurious treat that sets the tone for the entire day.

Try it, and see for yourself.

Stay Sharp,

Theory

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And for those of you serious about totally upgrading your image, Jae of Kinowear.com is offering 1-on-1 consultations with Kino Image Consulting LLC in New York City. Check out the new portfolio page for the phenomenal before & after pictures of previous clients who took the leap.

Edit 5/27/08: Welcome Metafilter & Del.icio.us readers!
Here are some of Kinowear’s Most Popular Articles:

Paul’s Style Transformation

Published by

Theory

at April 8, 2008 in Informative. 4 Comments

For those who missed it, here is a video of Paul’s style transformation. Paul was one of the “Kinowear 20″ to receive a 1-on-1 consultation with Jae in NYC. He goes from an average “polo shirt guy” to a total GQ model in this video. Enjoy!

And if you’re interested in learning more about the consultation program, check out: http://www.kinoimageconsulting.com/consultation

Best,

Theory

P.S. Check back in a couple of days for a killer article from Jae.

The Language Of Style (Part 1)

Published by

Theory

at March 6, 2008 in Dating Tips. 3 Comments

This is the 1st part in a 2-part series of articles entitled “The Language Of Style” written for askdanandjennifer.com.

“It’s all about personality man…women don’t care what you look like.”

Is it? or is this another feel-good rationalization that will sabotage men for generations to come…

Some men seem to think that style is nothing but superficial beautification. Others seem to fall into the other extreme of thinking image is everything—that it defines them.

Style is a language. It is a mode of communication.

To say that style is just beautification of the superficial is like saying words are just the decoration of pages. On the other hand, our style is not our identity.

The relationship can be best seen in the way a word defines the associated object/concept. The word is never truly equivalent to the object. It is just a representation, a communication of it.

René Magritte: “This is not a pipe” (It’s only a picture of a pipe)

Like the English language, there are always better ways to express the same message. It’s like describing yourself as “happy” vs. “first-paycheck-meets-last-day-of-high school joyful.” Some styles just get the message across better. Others are just antonyms. There are many men out there dressing in the antonyms of their desired selves.

The crazy thing about the language of style is that it communicates whether you are aware of it or not. Every single piece of clothing you put on is saying something about you. You might be putting on your “favorite” business casual outfit thinking you’re communicating “cultured,” “modern,” and “seasoned professional,” but you may actually be sending the message of “out-of-sync,” “antiquated,” and “amateur.”

How many judgments and presumptions can you make about the guy in the above picture? I bet you can write a paragraph about the dude’s life, including what his love life must be like, etc. You are conscious of this judgment making process now, but most of the time you are doing this unconsciously, labeling people, and making sweeping generalizations.

If you’re guilty of this, just imagine how others must be doing the same to you.

You see, the human mind is always trying to MAKE SENSE of the world. This often means making assumptions as an attempt to bridge the gap of information that it often experiences. When we see someone we’ve never seen before, the mind will do whatever it can with the information that is presented. That information is often presented in the form of appearance or image.

The common language of style exists whether you decide to acknowledge it or not. With your dress, you’re essentially “speaking” the language of society & culture, and conveying your characteristics through “words” that are commonly understood. Over-sized pants say something. So do red ties on presidents.

“OK, but who cares what others think? Why not just be confident?”

Unless you live in a cave by yourself, you should care about the messages you’re conveying through your style and clothing. To disregard it is like being OK with wearing a sign that says “loser” on your back. If you’re constantly sending messages anyways, you might as well learn the language and utilize it to work for you and not against you.

Guys: think about how often we judge women on their appearance. We often go as far as judge the very caliber of women from a mere glance, before they even say a word. I’m guilty of it. It’s as if I can “size up” a girl before I even meet her. Women do the same, with 10x the scrutiny.

Using the archetypes of style

There are countless style archetypes. There’s the “Rock Star,” “Preppy Ivy League,” “Urbane Cowboy” to name a few. All these looks have loaded messages. These are like sub-languages. They have the benefit of carrying a preloaded message–almost like canned “pick up lines.” If done right, they can be extremely powerful means of expressing a certain trait or message. However, there is always the down-side of not completely understanding the “sub-language,” botching the entire look, and coming off as a mumbled fool.

“Oh… but that’s not me”

When you dress into a certain archetype or stereotype, it’s not to pigeonhole your personality into a certain mold. It’s about a “tool” for communication. It’s about speaking the language of society, popular culture, and conveying your characteristics through “words” that are understood. This language does not define you. It is NOT your identity. You image or “look” is simply an expression of yourself through the medium of clothing

Try this

As an exercise: look yourself in the mirror right now, and ask yourself:

If I saw someone dressed the way that I’m dressed now, what kind of inferences would I make about that person?

Write down some of the words or assumptions that come to your mind. When you do this, really detach yourself from your appearance, and be honest. If you saw a guy dressed like this on the street, what would you guess about his career? his social life? his love life? Are you saying the things you want to say with your style? Are you fluent in the language of style?

Stay a cut above,

Jae & Theory

Read “The Language of Style” Part 2

If you want to see what kind of message your style communicates, check out our style critique forums where you can post images of your style and get feedback from us, as well as the community.

Looking for a total style transformation? 1-on-1 consultations w/ Jae (Kinowear.com author & image consultant) in New York City are now available in April. Questions? don’t hesitate to contact Jae@kinowear.com

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What Does A Stylish Belt Look Like?

Published by

Theory

at February 28, 2008 in Accessories. 3 Comments

Many men think belts are optional. If you read this site, then belts are not optional accessories. If you have any interest in style, you should believe that belts are essential. Like ties and pocket squares, belts are another small piece of an outfit that can make or break the entire look. A belt can say so much about you and add flair to an otherwise boring outfit.

Congruence is in the details

When women size your style up, they usually zone in on the details. Notice the attention to details in this belt– the orange stitching against black works perfectly. Wear this belt with an outfit that has orange accents, and you are playing in a different league. Women will notice.

Two main types of belts

Dressy and casual. Generally, skinner belts are dressier (meant for suits and dressed-up sportswear. Dressy belts are normally made of calfskin, and are adorned with a simple buckle (as seen below). Thicker/wider belts are for casual outfits–denim, cargo, corduroys, etc.

Dressy belts:

These should be a staple in every man’s wardrobe. The belts you wear with a suit should be sleek and simple. They should NOT have huge or fancy buckles or elaborate belt designs. Keep it understated and elegant. As for the belt leather, if you want to take it a step above, invest in high-quality leather such as crocodile leather. If the price tag makes you queasy, take comfort in the fact that a quality belt can last a lifetime.

For the color: stick to black and brown. (Brown belts go better with lighter colors and are a great bridge between light pants and colored shirts.)

If you’re having trouble differentiating the two, dressy belts tend to be a little wider than the width of your thumb. This is also where where the classic rule of matching your belt color with your shoes applies.

Material: stick to calfskin. Of course there is: lizard, ostrich, and crocodile…(upwards of $500+). Check out Trafalgar for classic genuine alligator belts.

Casual belts:

This is where it gets fun. This is where you have much more freedom with belts. Casual belts have a much greater range in the material it’s made of including suede, cloth, canvas, grosgrain, or nylon. Casual belts can be wider/thicker as well. As for color, you have white belts, several-tone…the combinations are limitless. In fact, the rules are relaxed in all respects. I’ve even seen guys pull of wearing a skinny tie as a belt. Risky, but extremely creative & stylish if done right.

Experimenting with buckles

This is where you start seeing the extremely stylish, over-sized buckles. However, this is also an area where many guys can go wrong. I’ve seen the most ridiculous-looking belt buckles–light-up dragons, toaster-sized tigers, etc. Then there are those LED belts with messages that scroll across. Please, stay away from these. Also, don’t get me wrong…I’m a fan of Nintendo, but please don’t wear your hobbies on your waist. Unless you’re in search of your long-lost Star Wars geek lover.

Many guys think wearing a loud and ridiculous belt is “peacocking.” It is. It will turn heads and grab attention. However, it’s also sending the wrong message: “look at my hideous belt and my total disregard of style.” You don’t want to start on that foot. Having a “unique style” doesn’t free you from the rules of attraction. Even when you’re adding your own flair and personality to an outfit, remember that there is unique stylish and then there’s unique train wreck. So stay away from gimmicky, gaudy buckles.

Creating a COMPLETE look

So when diving into the crazy world of belt buckles, tread with caution. The bigger the buckle, the riskier it gets. Stay away from tacky, toy-like buckles. Stay away from mirror-shiny buckles. Most importantly, keep it congruent with the rest of the look. At the end of the day, this is what “pulling it off” is about. It’s about whether that piece fits seamlessly with the “look” and “vibe” of the overall outfit. You can break all sorts of rules with congruence.

For example, you may look ridiculous trying to pull off a huge cowboy-esque buckle with clean-cut chinos and a polo. However, if you go the whole way, get yourself some distressed brown jeans, a tan graphic tee, a dark denim jacket, and add that same buckle to a thick brown leather belt–you have a complete look that works.

Some examples of stylish casual belts

There are certain fashion archetypes that each style of accessory carries. Be aware of that archetype/stereotype and play off it to create that complete look.

Woven leather (or braided) belts is a summer favorite that work extremely well with slim-cut pants and collared shirts. Perfect for the clean-cut, preppy, ivy-league look.

Here is one that plays on the military vintage look. Check out G-Star Raw & Diesel for some great military-inspired looks.

White belts are great to play against a modern, black-and-white chic look. (they are great for nightlife. Wear this with a black button-down and some jeans and your belt will set you apart from every one else.)

An example of a unique, double-buckle, wrap-around belt. Another perfect belt for the nightlife scene. This black w/ purple-striped cloth belt is perfect for a casual, yet classy modern look.

The ever-popular studded brown belt. This one works great for that grungy, rocker look that’s extremely popular these days:

Belt sizes

Belts are usually sold with a tag on it indicating its size. Take your waist size, and remember to go 1-2″ size bigger. This way, your “33″ or “34″ waist translates into a “36 - 40″ belt size.

Storing belts

A tip of about storing belts. If you’re going to invest $100+ in a belt, you may want to also protect your purchase. A lot of men have a habit of leaving their belts in their pants or rolling them up. This will curve the leather and damage its seems. Belts should always hang vertically and away from sunlight, so as not to dry out and damage the leather.

Reveal that belt!

If you’re going casual, show some of your belt! All the belt savvy in the world will be rendered pointless if you’re just going to throw your shirt over it. To show some belt: tuck it/let it rest over the buckle as seen in this picture. It helps to accent and balance the outfit.

That’s it for belts. For more on belts, check out our style community.

Stay sharp,

Theory

Also: Need some constructive criticism? check out our style critique forums where you can post images of your style and get feedback from us, as well as the community.

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PS: Many of the belt images you see here were taken from YesStyle.com. You can find a great selection of stylish belts / buckles there.

How To Fold A Pocket Square

Published by

Theory

at February 21, 2008 in Accessories. 6 Comments

It’s a simple piece of cloth that can elevate your style from bland to stylish. If worn well, at the appropriate times, it will speak volumes about your fashion sense. Like the tie, it is one of those small details a man has to add accent and personality to his outfit.

Some of you may be thinking…

Pocket square!? Why would I ever wear a pocket square?

Here’s the thing: just because you don’t normally wear a pocket square doesn’t mean there aren’t occasions where your outfit could supremely benefit from one. If pocket squares are a new thing for you, take a chance and try it out. The next time you’re wearing a suit, a blazer, try adding a quiet color/pattern pocket square with a subtle fold like the Flat Pocket Square Fold.

People will notice. Women will notice.

(If you own a suit and don’t own a pocket square, go pick one up at the suit/tie section of any department store. You don’t necessarily have to be wearing a suit to wear a pocket square. You don’t need a tie to wear a square. They’re more versatile than you think and definitely essential to every man’s wardrobe.)

Now, given that many men out there don’t even wear pocket squares, it follows that many are lost when it comes to folding one. Here are a few of my favorites folds:

» Flat Pocket Square Fold
(see above picture)

The square fold is the simplest fold of them all. It’s also the most versatile and subtle way to wear a pocket square. To fold, simply fold into quarters and insert into your jacket pocket.

» Puff Pocket Square Fold

This is another common fold that allows the square to “puff out” of the pocket. Here is a step-by-step illustration of how this “puff” is achieved:

Step 1: Lay your pocket square flat with the two top corners horizontal. Pinch the middle of the pocket square and pick it up.

Step 2: As you pick up the pocket square, tuck the sides in as in the diagram.

Step 3: With one hand firmly holding the pocket square, use your other hand to gently gather it closed.

Step 4: Now gracefully gather up the bottom of the pocket square

Step 5: Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket

Now for one that’s a bit more complicated:

» Dunaway Pocket Square Fold

For the first part, follow Steps 1, 2, & 3 of the Puff Pocket fold. From there, this is where it gets fun:

Step 4: Now gracefully roll the top of the pocket square in the direction of the arrow.

Step 5: Carefully lift the bottom points up.

Step 6: Flatten the points.

Step 7: Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket

» Three Stairs Pocket Square Fold

The next one is rather complex, reminiscent of origami. However, the end result is a subtle, yet elegant look.

Step 1: Lay your pocket square flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down.

Step 2: Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner

Step 3: Fold the front fold partially down so that it goes past the bottom of the pocket square.

Step 4: Now take the same fold and fold it back up towards the top of the pocket square.

Step 5: Now fold back towards the bottom of the pocket square. Be sure and keep your folds neat.

Step 6: Fold a small fold twards the top of the pocket square.

Step 7: Pause, and take a look at your pocket square folds so far. It should look basically like the illustration

Step 8: Now this is a little tricky: fold the right half of the pocket square behind the left side. If done correctly, you will still see the folds.

Step 9: Now rotate the righthand corner of the pocket square 90 degrees. Then fold the left side to the right.

Step 10: fold the right side to the left and we are done.

Step 11: Tuck as need and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.

If you really want to peacock, here’s something you won’t find at your local department store…

Introducing:

» The Shibori Pocket Square.

You must be thinking… what’s so great about a wrinkled pocket square?

Exhibit A: Sak’s Fifth’s Terron Schaefer.

He picked one up abroad in Japan, and learned the art of folding one of these unique pocket squares. The end result is what you see in the above picture. The floral effect of this pocket square is achieved through shibori, the Japanese process of manipulating fabric to add shape and dimension.

Peacocking. Down to the pocket square.

You can pick one up at the MoMA store for around $20. As for folding it, you’re on your own…

Stay Sharp,

Theory

Looking for a total style makeover? We’re running a special transformational coaching program for Kinowear.com readers: image consultation

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For further discussion on pocket squares, as well as community style critiques, visit the style forums.

(Also, credit Sam Hober for the above illustrations & instruction. For more folds check out his site.)

The World Of Denim Connoisseurs

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Theory

at February 13, 2008 in Jeans and Informative. 4 Comments

“…they’re just jeans…”

Just beyond the fashion-conscious culture of designer jeans including the likes of diesel, true religion, and seven, lies a niche denim culture, and it’s respective works of arts more artistic, subtle, expensive, and obsessive than anything you’ve seen before.

It’s a culture that includes terminology like “raw denim,” “organic denim,” and “selvage.” And it hails its heavy influences from one of the most obsessively unique epicenters of fashion, Japan.

Japanese Denim

If you call yourself a denim enthusiast, you are probably aware of “Japanese denim.” Although most of the mainstream is unaware, Japanese denim has a cult following amongst the fashion conscious because of its unique look, feel, and quality.

For style-obsessed Japanese who have the cash, a favorite pair of jeans is ultimately the most important item in a closet, surpassing the Fendi suit or the cashmere sweater from Prada. Brands may come and go but jeans are forever, and they are very, very personal. They will adorn you but they won’t disguise you, and they will surely reveal secrets of your innermost soul. - Kaori Shoji

You can see their culture of great attention-to-detail being applied to their denim, as Japanese denim makers go to great lengths, such as using traditional selvage looms to manufacture their denim. This labor-extensive process creates denim that is denser, yet surprisingly more comfortable than the mass-produced denim that we spot at the local Gap.

Mizra jeans, for example, are hand-made in Kyoto with details such as antique kimono fragments used on the pockets and hems. Even the dye is unique and organic, made from soy beans and wood charcoal. No two pair of Mizra jeans is the same.

So where do you find such art? For awhile, you could only find Japanese denim in Japan, but with the introduction of Japanese brands like Evisu, you can now find them in high-end boutiques, as well as boutiques. Cult Swedish brand Nudie also uses Japanese denim in their lines.

It seems Tokyo’s obsession with fashion is traveling fast into the States. Read Jae’s article, “What Asia Taught Me About Casual Style” to get a glimpse of the culture.

Selvage Denim (Selvedge Denim)

You hear a lot of talk amongst denim enthusiasts about “selvage” these days. Selvage denim is essentially a type of denim that forms a natural edge that does not unravel. The selvage edges will be located along the outseam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn (as seen in the above picture). Selvage denim is desirable because it usually denotes a higher quality denim.

The word “selvage” comes from the phrase “self-edge” and denotes denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this “self-edge” or Selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge can’t fray like lower grade denims that have separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming weaving process that produces denim of a tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts.

Raw Denim

Raw denim, or “dry denim,” is a denim that is not washed after the dying process. Most denim is washed after production in order to make it softer and reduce shrinkage. Also, non-raw (or non-dry) denim is also artificially “distressed” to achieve a certain look. Most of the jeans you find at stores with fades and artificial rips are examples of “non-dry” denim. Think of these types of jeans as your caramel lattes and raw denim as straight shots of espresso.

So why would anyone go for the plain-looking denim over its “cooler” counter-parts? The appeal in raw denim comes from the fact that with time the fabric fades in a manner similar to factory distressed denim. The fading is affected by the lifestyle of the person who wears it, giving it a more natural “character” that is a unique reflection of the wearer.

Organic Denim

You can think of “organic” denim like you do with “organic” foods. It is essentially denim made from 100% organic cotton, and as you will see below, other organic materials (such as the dye). Organic denim is devoid of pesticides and other chemicals, and thus, has quite the following with the eco-friendly.

A Look at the Process: Denim artisans work their art to create the finest denim (courtesy of Sharkah Chakra Jeans)

Sharkah Chakra jeans are made only from fairtrade organic cotton

“Over one month our denim makers dip and sundry each hanks of white cotton up to 30 times into the natural indigo pots. This was how all fabric used to be dyed thousands of years ago. Reinvented for today this is what gives Sharkah Chakra denim its deep authentic blue tones…”

Pure indigo dye from the plant

Hand-woven on old-fashioned looms

Selvedge is seen here in fabric form. This traditional red and white selvedge taping is hand woven into the ends of the cloth to protect it from fraying.