Monthly Archive for February, 2008

What Does A Stylish Belt Look Like?

Published
by
Theory
on February 28, 2008
in Accessories
. 13,702 views

Many men think belts are optional. If you read this site, then belts are not optional accessories. If you have any interest in style, you should believe that belts are essential. Like ties and pocket squares, belts are another small piece of an outfit that can make or break the entire look. A belt can say so much about you and add flair to an otherwise boring outfit.


Congruence is in the details

When women size your style up, they usually zone in on the details. Notice the attention to details in this belt– the orange stitching against black works perfectly. Wear this belt with an outfit that has orange accents, and you are playing in a different league. Women will notice.


Two main types of belts

Dressy and casual. Generally, skinner belts are dressier (meant for suits and dressed-up sportswear. Dressy belts are normally made of calfskin, and are adorned with a simple buckle (as seen below). Thicker/wider belts are for casual outfits–denim, cargo, corduroys, etc.


Dressy belts:

These should be a staple in every man’s wardrobe. The belts you wear with a suit should be sleek and simple. They should NOT have huge or fancy buckles or elaborate belt designs. Keep it understated and elegant. As for the belt leather, if you want to take it a step above, invest in high-quality leather such as crocodile leather. If the price tag makes you queasy, take comfort in the fact that a quality belt can last a lifetime.

For the color: stick to black and brown. (Brown belts go better with lighter colors and are a great bridge between light pants and colored shirts.)

If you’re having trouble differentiating the two, dressy belts tend to be a little wider than the width of your thumb. This is also where where the classic rule of matching your belt color with your shoes applies.

Material: stick to calfskin. Of course there is: lizard, ostrich, and crocodile…(upwards of $500+). Check out Trafalgar for classic genuine leather belts.


Casual belts:

This is where it gets fun. This is where you have much more freedom with belts. Casual belts have a much greater range in the material it’s made of including suede, cloth, canvas, grosgrain, or nylon. Casual belts can be wider/thicker as well. As for color, you have white belts, several-tone…the combinations are limitless. In fact, the rules are relaxed in all respects. I’ve even seen guys pull of wearing a skinny tie as a belt. Risky, but extremely creative & stylish if done right.


Experimenting with buckles

This is where you start seeing the extremely stylish, over-sized buckles. However, this is also an area where many guys can go wrong. I’ve seen the most ridiculous-looking belt buckles–light-up dragons, toaster-sized tigers, etc. Then there are those LED belts with messages that scroll across. Please, stay away from these. Also, don’t get me wrong…I’m a fan of Nintendo, but please don’t wear your hobbies on your waist. Unless you’re in search of your long-lost Star Wars geek lover.

Many guys think wearing a loud and ridiculous belt is “peacocking.” It is. It will turn heads and grab attention. However, it’s also sending the wrong message: “look at my hideous belt and my total disregard of style.” You don’t want to start on that foot. Having a “unique style” doesn’t free you from the rules of attraction. Even when you’re adding your own flair and personality to an outfit, remember that there is unique stylish and then there’s unique train wreck. So stay away from gimmicky, gaudy buckles.


Creating a COMPLETE look

So when diving into the crazy world of belt buckles, tread with caution. The bigger the buckle, the riskier it gets. Stay away from tacky, toy-like buckles. Stay away from mirror-shiny buckles. Most importantly, keep it congruent with the rest of the look. At the end of the day, this is what “pulling it off” is about. It’s about whether that piece fits seamlessly with the “look” and “vibe” of the overall outfit. You can break all sorts of rules with congruence.

For example, you may look ridiculous trying to pull off a huge cowboy-esque buckle with clean-cut chinos and a polo. However, if you go the whole way, get yourself some distressed brown jeans, a tan graphic tee, a dark denim jacket, and add that same buckle to a thick brown leather belt–you have a complete look that works.


Some examples of stylish casual belts

There are certain fashion archetypes that each style of accessory carries. Be aware of that archetype/stereotype and play off it to create that complete look.

Woven leather (or braided) belts is a summer favorite that work extremely well with slim-cut pants and collared shirts. Perfect for the clean-cut, preppy, ivy-league look.

Here is one that plays on the military vintage look. Check out G-Star Raw & Diesel for some great military-inspired looks.

White belts are great to play against a modern, black-and-white chic look. (they are great for nightlife. Wear this with a black button-down and some jeans and your belt will set you apart from every one else.)

An example of a unique, double-buckle, wrap-around belt. Another perfect belt for the nightlife scene. This black w/ purple-striped cloth belt is perfect for a casual, yet classy modern look.

The ever-popular studded brown belt. This one works great for that grungy, rocker look that’s extremely popular these days:


Belt sizes

Belts are usually sold with a tag on it indicating its size. Take your waist size, and remember to go 1-2″ size bigger. This way, your “33″ or “34″ waist translates into a “36 - 40″ belt size.

Storing belts

A tip of about storing belts. If you’re going to invest $100+ in a belt, you may want to also protect your purchase. A lot of men have a habit of leaving their belts in their pants or rolling them up. This will curve the leather and damage its seems. Belts should always hang vertically and away from sunlight, so as not to dry out and damage the leather.

Reveal that belt!

If you’re going casual, show some of your belt! All the belt savvy in the world will be rendered pointless if you’re just going to throw your shirt over it. To show some belt: tuck it/let it rest over the buckle as seen in this picture. It helps to accent and balance the outfit.


That’s it for belts. For more on belts, check out our style community.

Stay sharp,

Theory

Also: Need some constructive criticism? check out our style critique forums where you can post images of your style and get feedback from us, as well as the community.


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PS: Many of the belt images you see here were taken from YesStyle.com. You can find a great selection of stylish belts / buckles there.

How To Fold A Pocket Square

Published
by
Theory
on February 21, 2008
in Accessories
. 63,390 views

(scroll down for “how to” guide w/ illustrations)

It’s a simple piece of cloth that can elevate your style from bland to stylish. If worn well, at the appropriate times, it will speak volumes about your fashion sense. Like the tie, it is one of those small details a man has to add accent and personality to his outfit.

Some of you may be thinking…

Pocket square!? Why would I ever wear a pocket square?

Here’s the thing: just because you don’t normally wear a pocket square doesn’t mean there aren’t occasions where your outfit could supremely benefit from one. If pocket squares are a new thing for you, take a chance and try it out. The next time you’re wearing a suit, a blazer, try adding a quiet color/pattern pocket square with a subtle fold like the Flat Pocket Square Fold.

People will notice. Women will notice.

(If you own a suit and don’t own a pocket square, go pick one up at the suit/tie section of any department store. You don’t necessarily have to be wearing a suit to wear a pocket square. You don’t need a tie to wear a square. They’re more versatile than you think and definitely essential to every man’s wardrobe.)

Now, given that many men out there don’t even wear pocket squares, it follows that many are lost when it comes to folding one. Here are a few of my favorites folds:


» Flat Pocket Square Fold
(see above picture)

The square fold is the simplest fold of them all. It’s also the most versatile and subtle way to wear a pocket square. To fold, simply fold into quarters and insert into your jacket pocket.



» Puff Pocket Square Fold

This is another common fold that allows the square to “puff out” of the pocket. Here is a step-by-step illustration of how this “puff” is achieved:

Step 1: Lay your pocket square flat with the two top corners horizontal. Pinch the middle of the pocket square and pick it up.

Step 2: As you pick up the pocket square, tuck the sides in as in the diagram.

Step 3: With one hand firmly holding the pocket square, use your other hand to gently gather it closed.

Step 4: Now gracefully gather up the bottom of the pocket square

Step 5: Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket

Now for one that’s a bit more complicated:


» Dunaway Pocket Square Fold

For the first part, follow Steps 1, 2, & 3 of the Puff Pocket fold. From there, this is where it gets fun:

Step 4: Now gracefully roll the top of the pocket square in the direction of the arrow.

Step 5: Carefully lift the bottom points up.

Step 6: Flatten the points.

Step 7: Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket


» Three Stairs Pocket Square Fold

The next one is rather complex, reminiscent of origami. However, the end result is a subtle, yet elegant look.

Step 1: Lay your pocket square flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down.

Step 2: Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner

Step 3: Fold the front fold partially down so that it goes past the bottom of the pocket square.

Step 4: Now take the same fold and fold it back up towards the top of the pocket square.

Step 5: Now fold back towards the bottom of the pocket square. Be sure and keep your folds neat.

Step 6: Fold a small fold twards the top of the pocket square.

Step 7: Pause, and take a look at your pocket square folds so far. It should look basically like the illustration

Step 8: Now this is a little tricky: fold the right half of the pocket square behind the left side. If done correctly, you will still see the folds.

Step 9: Now rotate the righthand corner of the pocket square 90 degrees. Then fold the left side to the right.

Step 10: fold the right side to the left and we are done.

Step 11: Tuck as need and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.


If you really want to peacock, here’s something you won’t find at your local department store…

Introducing:

» The Shibori Pocket Square.

You must be thinking… what’s so great about a wrinkled pocket square?

Exhibit A: Sak’s Fifth’s Terron Schaefer.

He picked one up abroad in Japan, and learned the art of folding one of these unique pocket squares. The end result is what you see in the above picture. The floral effect of this pocket square is achieved through shibori, the Japanese process of manipulating fabric to add shape and dimension.

Peacocking. Down to the pocket square.

You can pick one up at the Moma store for around $20. As for folding it, you’re on your own…

Stay Sharp,

Theory


Articles you may also enjoy:  

» How To Tie A Tie: The Pursuit Of The Perfect Knot
» Finding the Perfect Suit
» The Elusive Perfect Shave
» What Asia Taught Me About Casual Style


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(credit Sam Hober for the above illustrations & instruction.)