Archive for February, 2008

What Does A Stylish Belt Look Like?

Published by
Theory
at February 28, 2008 in Accessories. 2 Comments

Many men think belts are optional. If you read this site, then belts are not optional accessories. If you have any interest in style, you should believe that belts are essential. Like ties and pocket squares, belts are another small piece of an outfit that can make or break the entire look. A belt can say so much about you and add flair to an otherwise boring outfit.


Congruence is in the details

When women size your style up, they usually zone in on the details. Notice the attention to details in this belt– the orange stitching against black works perfectly. Wear this belt with an outfit that has orange accents, and you are playing in a different league. Women will notice.


Two main types of belts

Dressy and casual. Generally, skinner belts are dressier (meant for suits and dressed-up sportswear. Dressy belts are normally made of calfskin, and are adorned with a simple buckle (as seen below). Thicker/wider belts are for casual outfits–denim, cargo, corduroys, etc.


Dressy belts:

These should be a staple in every man’s wardrobe. The belts you wear with a suit should be sleek and simple. They should NOT have huge or fancy buckles or elaborate belt designs. Keep it understated and elegant. As for the belt leather, if you want to take it a step above, invest in high-quality leather such as crocodile leather. If the price tag makes you queasy, take comfort in the fact that a quality belt can last a lifetime.

For the color: stick to black and brown. (Brown belts go better with lighter colors and are a great bridge between light pants and colored shirts.)

If you’re having trouble differentiating the two, dressy belts tend to be a little wider than the width of your thumb. This is also where where the classic rule of matching your belt color with your shoes applies.

Material: stick to calfskin. Of course there is: lizard, ostrich, and crocodile…(upwards of $500+). Check out Trafalgar for classic genuine alligator belts.


Casual belts:

This is where it gets fun. This is where you have much more freedom with belts. Casual belts have a much greater range in the material it’s made of including suede, cloth, canvas, grosgrain, or nylon. Casual belts can be wider/thicker as well. As for color, you have white belts, several-tone…the combinations are limitless. In fact, the rules are relaxed in all respects. I’ve even seen guys pull of wearing a skinny tie as a belt. Risky, but extremely creative & stylish if done right.


Experimenting with buckles

This is where you start seeing the extremely stylish, over-sized buckles. However, this is also an area where many guys can go wrong. I’ve seen the most ridiculous-looking belt buckles–light-up dragons, toaster-sized tigers, etc. Then there are those LED belts with messages that scroll across. Please, stay away from these. Also, don’t get me wrong…I’m a fan of Nintendo, but please don’t wear your hobbies on your waist. Unless you’re in search of your long-lost Star Wars geek lover.

Many guys think wearing a loud and ridiculous belt is “peacocking.” It is. It will turn heads and grab attention. However, it’s also sending the wrong message: “look at my hideous belt and my total disregard of style.” You don’t want to start on that foot. Having a “unique style” doesn’t free you from the rules of attraction. Even when you’re adding your own flair and personality to an outfit, remember that there is unique stylish and then there’s unique train wreck. So stay away from gimmicky, gaudy buckles.


Creating a COMPLETE look

So when diving into the crazy world of belt buckles, tread with caution. The bigger the buckle, the riskier it gets. Stay away from tacky, toy-like buckles. Stay away from mirror-shiny buckles. Most importantly, keep it congruent with the rest of the look. At the end of the day, this is what “pulling it off” is about. It’s about whether that piece fits seamlessly with the “look” and “vibe” of the overall outfit. You can break all sorts of rules with congruence.

For example, you may look ridiculous trying to pull off a huge cowboy-esque buckle with clean-cut chinos and a polo. However, if you go the whole way, get yourself some distressed brown jeans, a tan graphic tee, a dark denim jacket, and add that same buckle to a thick brown leather belt–you have a complete look that works.


Some examples of stylish casual belts

There are certain fashion archetypes that each style of accessory carries. Be aware of that archetype/stereotype and play off it to create that complete look.

Woven leather (or braided) belts is a summer favorite that work extremely well with slim-cut pants and collared shirts. Perfect for the clean-cut, preppy, ivy-league look.

Here is one that plays on the military vintage look. Check out G-Star Raw & Diesel for some great military-inspired looks.

White belts are great to play against a modern, black-and-white chic look. (they are great for nightlife. Wear this with a black button-down and some jeans and your belt will set you apart from every one else.)

An example of a unique, double-buckle, wrap-around belt. Another perfect belt for the nightlife scene. This black w/ purple-striped cloth belt is perfect for a casual, yet classy modern look.

The ever-popular studded brown belt. This one works great for that grungy, rocker look that’s extremely popular these days:


Belt sizes

Belts are usually sold with a tag on it indicating its size. Take your waist size, and remember to go 1-2″ size bigger. This way, your “33″ or “34″ waist translates into a “36 - 40″ belt size.

Storing belts

A tip of about storing belts. If you’re going to invest $100+ in a belt, you may want to also protect your purchase. A lot of men have a habit of leaving their belts in their pants or rolling them up. This will curve the leather and damage its seems. Belts should always hang vertically and away from sunlight, so as not to dry out and damage the leather.

Reveal that belt!

If you’re going casual, show some of your belt! All the belt savvy in the world will be rendered pointless if you’re just going to throw your shirt over it. To show some belt: tuck it/let it rest over the buckle as seen in this picture. It helps to accent and balance the outfit.


That’s it for belts. For more on belts, check out our style community.

Stay sharp,

Theory

Also: Need some constructive criticism? check out our style critique forums where you can post images of your style and get feedback from us, as well as the community.


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PS: Many of the belt images you see here were taken from YesStyle.com. You can find a great selection of stylish belts / buckles there.

How To Fold A Pocket Square

Published by
Theory
at February 21, 2008 in Accessories. 5 Comments

It’s a simple piece of cloth that can elevate your style from bland to stylish. If worn well, at the appropriate times, it will speak volumes about your fashion sense. Like the tie, it is one of those small details a man has to add accent and personality to his outfit.

Some of you may be thinking…

Pocket square!? Why would I ever wear a pocket square?

Here’s the thing: just because you don’t normally wear a pocket square doesn’t mean there aren’t occasions where your outfit could supremely benefit from one. If pocket squares are a new thing for you, take a chance and try it out. The next time you’re wearing a suit, a blazer, try adding a quiet color/pattern pocket square with a subtle fold like the Flat Pocket Square Fold.

People will notice. Women will notice.

(If you own a suit and don’t own a pocket square, go pick one up at the suit/tie section of any department store. You don’t necessarily have to be wearing a suit to wear a pocket square. You don’t need a tie to wear a square. They’re more versatile than you think and definitely essential to every man’s wardrobe.)

Now, given that many men out there don’t even wear pocket squares, it follows that many are lost when it comes to folding one. Here are a few of my favorites folds:


» Flat Pocket Square Fold
(see above picture)

The square fold is the simplest fold of them all. It’s also the most versatile and subtle way to wear a pocket square. To fold, simply fold into quarters and insert into your jacket pocket.


» Puff Pocket Square Fold

This is another common fold that allows the square to “puff out” of the pocket. Here is a step-by-step illustration of how this “puff” is achieved:

Step 1: Lay your pocket square flat with the two top corners horizontal. Pinch the middle of the pocket square and pick it up.

Step 2: As you pick up the pocket square, tuck the sides in as in the diagram.

Step 3: With one hand firmly holding the pocket square, use your other hand to gently gather it closed.

Step 4: Now gracefully gather up the bottom of the pocket square

Step 5: Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket

Now for one that’s a bit more complicated:


» Dunaway Pocket Square Fold

For the first part, follow Steps 1, 2, & 3 of the Puff Pocket fold. From there, this is where it gets fun:

Step 4: Now gracefully roll the top of the pocket square in the direction of the arrow.

Step 5: Carefully lift the bottom points up.

Step 6: Flatten the points.

Step 7: Tuck as needed and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket


» Three Stairs Pocket Square Fold

The next one is rather complex, reminiscent of origami. However, the end result is a subtle, yet elegant look.

Step 1: Lay your pocket square flat with one corner facing up and one corner facing down.

Step 2: Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner

Step 3: Fold the front fold partially down so that it goes past the bottom of the pocket square.

Step 4: Now take the same fold and fold it back up towards the top of the pocket square.

Step 5: Now fold back towards the bottom of the pocket square. Be sure and keep your folds neat.

Step 6: Fold a small fold twards the top of the pocket square.

Step 7: Pause, and take a look at your pocket square folds so far. It should look basically like the illustration

Step 8: Now this is a little tricky: fold the right half of the pocket square behind the left side. If done correctly, you will still see the folds.

Step 9: Now rotate the righthand corner of the pocket square 90 degrees. Then fold the left side to the right.

Step 10: fold the right side to the left and we are done.

Step 11: Tuck as need and place your pocket square in your jacket pocket.


If you really want to peacock, here’s something you won’t find at your local department store…

Introducing:

» The Shibori Pocket Square.

You must be thinking… what’s so great about a wrinkled pocket square?

Exhibit A: Sak’s Fifth’s Terron Schaefer.

He picked one up abroad in Japan, and learned the art of folding one of these unique pocket squares. The end result is what you see in the above picture. The floral effect of this pocket square is achieved through shibori, the Japanese process of manipulating fabric to add shape and dimension.

Peacocking. Down to the pocket square.

You can pick one up at the MoMA store for around $20. As for folding it, you’re on your own…

Stay Sharp,

Theory

Looking for a total style makeover? We’re running a special transformational coaching program for Kinowear.com readers: image consultation


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For further discussion on pocket squares, as well as community style critiques, visit the style forums.

(Also, credit Sam Hober for the above illustrations & instruction. For more folds check out his site.)

The World Of Denim Connoisseurs

Published by
Theory
at February 13, 2008 in Jeans and Informative. 4 Comments

“…they’re just jeans…”

Just beyond the fashion-conscious culture of designer jeans including the likes of diesel, true religion, and seven, lies a niche denim culture, and it’s respective works of arts more artistic, subtle, expensive, and obsessive than anything you’ve seen before.

It’s a culture that includes terminology like “raw denim,” “organic denim,” and “selvage.” And it hails its heavy influences from one of the most obsessively unique epicenters of fashion, Japan.


Japanese Denim

If you call yourself a denim enthusiast, you are probably aware of “Japanese denim.” Although most of the mainstream is unaware, Japanese denim has a cult following amongst the fashion conscious because of its unique look, feel, and quality.

For style-obsessed Japanese who have the cash, a favorite pair of jeans is ultimately the most important item in a closet, surpassing the Fendi suit or the cashmere sweater from Prada. Brands may come and go but jeans are forever, and they are very, very personal. They will adorn you but they won’t disguise you, and they will surely reveal secrets of your innermost soul. - Kaori Shoji

You can see their culture of great attention-to-detail being applied to their denim, as Japanese denim makers go to great lengths, such as using traditional selvage looms to manufacture their denim. This labor-extensive process creates denim that is denser, yet surprisingly more comfortable than the mass-produced denim that we spot at the local Gap.

Mizra jeans, for example, are hand-made in Kyoto with details such as antique kimono fragments used on the pockets and hems. Even the dye is unique and organic, made from soy beans and wood charcoal. No two pair of Mizra jeans is the same.

So where do you find such art? For awhile, you could only find Japanese denim in Japan, but with the introduction of Japanese brands like Evisu, you can now find them in high-end boutiques, as well as boutiques. Cult Swedish brand Nudie also uses Japanese denim in their lines.

It seems Tokyo’s obsession with fashion is traveling fast into the States. Read Jae’s article, “What Asia Taught Me About Casual Style” to get a glimpse of the culture.


Selvage Denim (Selvedge Denim)

You hear a lot of talk amongst denim enthusiasts about “selvage” these days. Selvage denim is essentially a type of denim that forms a natural edge that does not unravel. The selvage edges will be located along the outseam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn (as seen in the above picture). Selvage denim is desirable because it usually denotes a higher quality denim.

The word “selvage” comes from the phrase “self-edge” and denotes denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this “self-edge” or Selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge can’t fray like lower grade denims that have separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming weaving process that produces denim of a tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts.


Raw Denim

Raw denim, or “dry denim,” is a denim that is not washed after the dying process. Most denim is washed after production in order to make it softer and reduce shrinkage. Also, non-raw (or non-dry) denim is also artificially “distressed” to achieve a certain look. Most of the jeans you find at stores with fades and artificial rips are examples of “non-dry” denim. Think of these types of jeans as your caramel lattes and raw denim as straight shots of espresso.

So why would anyone go for the plain-looking denim over its “cooler” counter-parts? The appeal in raw denim comes from the fact that with time the fabric fades in a manner similar to factory distressed denim. The fading is affected by the lifestyle of the person who wears it, giving it a more natural “character” that is a unique reflection of the wearer.


Organic Denim

You can think of “organic” denim like you do with “organic” foods. It is essentially denim made from 100% organic cotton, and as you will see below, other organic materials (such as the dye). Organic denim is devoid of pesticides and other chemicals, and thus, has quite the following with the eco-friendly.


A Look at the Process: Denim artisans work their art to create the finest denim (courtesy of Sharkah Chakra Jeans)

Sharkah Chakra jeans are made only from fairtrade organic cotton

“Over one month our denim makers dip and sundry each hanks of white cotton up to 30 times into the natural indigo pots. This was how all fabric used to be dyed thousands of years ago. Reinvented for today this is what gives Sharkah Chakra denim its deep authentic blue tones…”

Pure indigo dye from the plant

Hand-woven on old-fashioned looms

Selvedge is seen here in fabric form. This traditional red and white selvedge taping is hand woven into the ends of the cloth to protect it from fraying.

The selvedge taping on the inside seam is a mark that the jeans were cut and tailored from the same piece of denim.


Organic pocketing……detailed simplicity.


To end off, here is a denim enthusiast’s list of brands known for exhibiting the aforementioned quality:

Nudie
A.P.C.
Ernest Sewn
Crate
KMW
Spurr
RRL
Simon Miller
Rag & Bone
Sugar Cane
Acne
45rpm
Evisu
Studio d’Artisan

After exploring this culture and it’s brands, I must admit that I can’t see jeans in the same way.

Stay a cut above,

Theory


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How To Tie A Tie: The Pursuit Of The Perfect Knot

Published by
Jae
at February 8, 2008 in Accessories and Informative. 15 Comments

How well can you tie a necktie?

Last night I’m at a party, and I chat up this gorgeous blonde with dark smoky eye makeup, angular face, an hourglass figure and long legs. After a good session of banter and comfort building, she compliments me on my tie and pulls it towards her for a kiss - at which point I thanked the man who invented them in my head.

I’m pretty confident that I look great in ties. Having to rock a tie each morning can build some expertise when it comes to executing a precise knot. That and being an image consultant has some side effects…

Here’s another side-effect: my super-trained brain can quickly assess whether a man has the skillful knowledge of how to tie a tie with perfection. It’s subtle, but it makes all the difference in the way he looks. For example, a simple touch such as a dimple in a tie can add both sophistication and depth to one man’s outfit, while another’s childish knot can add the look of a clip-on from the fifth grade.

So as I’m putting on my tie this morning I’m wondering just how many men are completely unaware of this subtle and absolutely necessary art.

Maybe you’ve never learned how to tie a tie. Maybe you’re just out of practice. Maybe you wear one to work each day, but want a fresh trick or two to upgrade your style. Where ever you are, I’m sure you can learn something today.

So…let’s dive into the twisted world of silk…

How many different knots do you know?

If you’re like most men, at some point in your life your father probably showed you one simple way to tie a necktie; he probably mumbled something under his breath, attempting to demonstrate, and told you to go figure it out on your own. From then on, you most likely never bothered to teach yourself another kind of knot other than the one that gets the job done quickly.

Well, it’ll do you good to learn some different knots, because one of the greatest ways to accessorize is with a tie.

Did you ever consider which knots go better with certain outfits? Or perhaps even…best for your body frame?

If you don’t know how to tie a tie at all, you’re going to learn TODAY. The day will come when you’re going to have to don a necktie…and heaven forbid the day your parents, friends, or girlfriend is unable to help you…

Instead of settling for a clip-on, here’s a challenge for you:

Master at LEAST one of these knots. Not that hard at all.

What is mastery? You should be able to get a perfect tie knot and length in relatively less than 30 seconds.

If you already know one way to tie a necktie, learning some different ways will give you more options. You might even find a new one you really like, or another way of tying it that goes better with more casual wear. Try them all and decide which ones suit you best.

You’ll thank me later.

I say that if you want to be a man of style, then this knowledge is a given. You’ll take it with you to the grave. Even if you end up never wearing ties, just knowing in itself is a cool display of higher value. That way when your son asks you how to tie one, you won’t stand there frozen, regretting the day you skipped this article. ; )

Don’t worry, I’ll make it fun.

The best way to learn is LIVE, so I did the closest thing and posted up some youtube videos on how to tie different necktie knots.


Windsor

A lot of guys will mistakingly refer to this as the “double Windsor” due to the existence of the half Windsor. The proper term is The Windsor or Full Windsor.

The Windsor Knot is a thick, wide and triangular tie knot that projects confidence. It would therefore be your knot of choice for presentations, job interviews, courtroom appearances, and anywhere else you need to look respectable. This means you should definitely learn how to do this knot - it’s actually quite easy to do.

Because of it’s size, keep in mind that it is best suited for wide spread collar shirts.


Half-Windsor

The half-Windsor offers the upscale look of a Windsor with less effort. Accordingly, there’s a good chance that you’ll come to rely on it pretty heavily. It’s not as wide as the Windsor, but its still wide enough that you should make sure it’s not pushing your collar up awkwardly.


Pratt or “Shelby”

This knot is highly symmetrical, like the Windsor, but looser to wear and not as time-consuming to create. Since the Pratt is neither as large as the Windsor nor as narrow as the four-in-hand knot, it pairs well with most dress shirts and looks suitable on any occasion.

I couldn’t find a video with words so here are the instructions to go along with the video:

1. Place the tie around your neck with the seam (the end with the tag) facing outward on both the thin and fat ends. Note that the fat end should be hanging lower than the thin end on the chest.

2. Cross the two ends over to form an X and flip the fat end and through the loop to form a knot around the smaller end.

3. Pull both ends apart quite tightly to ensure your knot is snug, then bring the fat end of the tie over the thin end to cover your first knot.

4. Pull the fat end up and through the loop, then drop it down through the knot.

5. Tighten and dimple up.


Four-in-hand

Here is a great one to wear with casual clothes, learn this knot. Try this with a casual dress shirt with softer material, preferably with a smaller spread. This one will come in handy when you’re in a rush too.

It’s naturally going to be a little asymmetrical, so don’t be discouraged that it doesn’t look straight, that’s all part of the four-in-hand. The dimple is much harder to produce on this kind of knot, and sometimes will not form at all.

The four standard knots are the Four-in-hand, the Pratt, the half-Windsor, and the Windsor, and out of those I like the Windsor the best.

Try the St.Andrew knot if you want one that looks very much like the half-Windsor that is much easier to get right.

Some will say the St. Andrew is a much better choice than any of the four traditional knots if you only learn one knot. It’s difficult to make it look bad no matter how poorly or quickly you tie it.

Instructions for Tying a St. Andrew Knot

The video has no words so here are instructions for those of you who can’t get it right with the video alone.

Great symmetric knots (small to large):

  • the Nicky for a simple small knot
  • St. Andrew for a fuller knot like a half-Windsor
  • Windsor for a big triangle knot
  • Hanover for a really big triangle knot

Great “weird” knots (small to large):

  • Victoria (small tube)
  • Cavendish (asymmetrical knot)

You can search for these on youtube if you really want to outdo yourself, but unless you like to wear neckties frequently and you’ve mastered the four standard knots, there is no need to confuse yourself.


Choosing a Tie

After you have some practice and think you know what you’re doing, go talk to a man at a good men’s clothing store who takes his job seriously. He can show you how to really do it right, what to look for in a very good tie, and tricks that can’t be easily described in print. It’s going to cost you at least $40 for a good tie. If he says something along the lines of “a tie’s a tie,” or isn’t an expert at tying his own tie, go somewhere else.

When choosing a tie, your main concern should be on three things: the quality, the material and the color of the tie. Silk ties (made of 100% silk) are always best to have. Make sure that you pick one that is just the right thickness and length.

If you are tall, go for a longer tie.

The rule for tie length is that when tied in a properly fitted Windsor knot (or any other knot for that matter), the triangular point at the wide end of the tie should be able to meet your belt buckle. Make sure you bring a dress shirt to the store, and try it on before you buy.

When you finally pick out the tie you like, never forget to double check that it is not damaged, smudged, or crinkled in any way.

TIPS:

When choosing a knotting style, consider the thickness of the tie. Some ties are too thick to make anything other than a four-in-hand look decent. Some are so thin that the extra bulk added by one of the Windsor knots is needed to make the knot noticeable.

Are you aware that your face and skin also should affect your tie selection?

If you have a strong, angular face you look better in striped ties. Dotted and paisley printed ties go well with a round or baby face. Solid colors can be worn by everyone.

As you would match the shirt and suit to your skin before buying, so should you follow the same principles while selecting a tie.

If you have a slim build, check out some skinny ties, as they are in style right now.

Something else I really like are wool knit ties. Definitely something you don’t see often, but if you can pull it off, it looks great. There are also cashmere knit ties - which are more expensive than silk ties - but have a few classic pieces in your wardrobe before you decide to splurge on one.


A Trick to Getting the Right Tie Length Every Time

What is important to remember is that different ties are different lengths but it doesn’t really matter how long or short the short/skinny end of the tie is after you tie your tie. What is more important is how long the long/wide end of the tie is. This is what people see and what causes retying if you tie it incorrectly.

1. Let both of your arms hang down at your side. Hang your tie around your neck and hold the tip of the wide end of the tie in your outstretched arm’s hand, downward at your side.

2. Take mental note where the end of the wide end of the tie falls with regards to the length of your arm. (eg: middle of your fingers, tip of your fingers, a couple inches past your fingers) This serves as your personal gauge.

3. Tie your tie.

4. If the length is how you like it, you now know your personal gauge. If it’s too short/long for your preference, untie your tie and start over adjusting where the tip of your tie falls in your downward stretched hand adjusting for how short or long the tie was with the first tie attempt. Just slide the tie a little more over on your neck to adjust for this length difference. Just use this same gauge every time you tie your tie and the length will be about the same every time, right? The short/skinny end is the end that will vary with different ties.

What’s a collar spread?

Don’t know what different collar spreads look like? check here: http://ripleyshirts.com/Ripley_Collars/Ripley_Collars.html

If you have read this article and mastered the four standard knots, congratulations, you are officially trained in the basic arts of necktie tying.

Stay Sharp,

Jae


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P.S. Want to see one Kinowear reader’s style transformation? Check out his before & after video. And for those who are interested, I offer 1-on-1 consultations in New York City. Click here for details, and if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to contact me at Jae@kinowear.com.


Update: Welcome Lifehacker Readers!
Here are some of Kinowear’s popular articles to get you started:

» What Asia Taught Me About Casual Style
» 5 Tips To Dramatically Improve Your Style
» How Image Affects Emotional State
» 5 Tips On How To Find The Right Hairstyle
» How To Find The Right Pair Of Sunglasses

Stay sharp,

Jae

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